| Crank
Rainier 1998 |
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On June 6th, 1998, Pete Rieke set out to become the first parapalegic to climb Washington's Mt. Rainier. Using a Snowpod, a device created by Mobility Engineering to allow individuals like Pete the freedom to achieve their dreams, Pete and friends undertook a nine day journey which ended just below the summit. After days of hard work and tough weather, the team was turned back at 12,600' (less than 1500' from the summit) by a large crevasse field which was determined to be impassable at the time. Although the summit was not reached, the trip was a great success in proving what a parapalegic like Pete can do given enough courage and the right tools.
The climb was covered nationally as well
as on the world-wide web.
Peters personal
story
Some of the many
trip pictures
The transcripts from the Crank Rainier
web site of the trip follow below:
Saturday (6/6) - The Crank Rainier
climb officially began just before 5am Saturday june 6th. Pete set
out from the Paradise parking lot (5500') along with Wreatha Carner, Chris
Coyle, and Greg Coffey. There also
were two park rangers and two reporters who came along for the first day.
The team followed the standard route towards Camp Muir and the morning
weather was perfect. Greg Coffey turned back first so that he could return
to his
post as basecamp manager. John Stang,
a reporter for the Tri-City Herald, turned back a
short time later in the day. John is continuing
to run a story following Pete's return to the mountains which can be found
at www.tri-cityherld.com The first challenge for Pete came when he
reached the slopes of Panorama Point. At this point 3 more members
of the climbing team arrived. Dean Nester, Dan Hansen, and Ray Erbeznik
showed up carrying more of the climbing gear necessary to allow Pete to
safely climb the roughly 40° slopes. By noon, Pete was sitting
above the slope. A few more hours of cranking brought Pete to his
first day's end. His camp was set up at about 7200' near Pebble Creek.
So with 10 hours of cranking on the first day, Pete had climbed about 1700',
leaving 7200' to go to the summit. I unloaded the supplies I had
been carrying and headed back down to basecamp.
Sunday (6/7) - Pete and the team
began at 3:30 am today. The route took the team up the Muir Snowfield
and 1900' closer to the summit. Camp 2 was setup near Moon Rocks
at 9100' around 2pm. The weather on Sunday was bright and hot, making
the snow soft for much of the day. This made cranking the pod fairly
difficult since the tracks tend to sink in. The Muir Snowfield is a very
popular route, attracting hundreds of hikers a day, some of which climb
while others are out only for a day hike to Muir. Many hikers found
their way over to Pete today, asking questions about the snowpod and wanting
to know which route Pete was going to take to the summit. So after
two days the climb is going extremely well. "So far I am holding up well.
My arms were stiff and sore this morning, but feel much better this afternoon."
Tomorrow, Pete and the team should pass Camp Muir. "Things get exciting
after Muir." Joining the climbing team today was Ira Hickman, Carl
Jarvis, and Mike Poole. Sunday's porters were Mark Hoza and Dick Erickson.
Monday (6/8) - After leaving Moon
Rocks at 3:45am, Pete and the team reached Camp Muir (10,100') by 10:40am.
The dawn was bright and clear on monday but there were strong winds and
some nasty looking clouds near the summit. A few climbers on the
mountain (not from our team) returned early today due to the strong winds.
"While we could have moved on further, the next logical camp was
too far to reach before the snow turned too soft. Besides, we are
getting ahead of our supply lines. Much of the ropes and climbing
gear is on the way and fuel is running low. Todays porter hauls should
solve these logistical problems." The team took most of monday to
rest and eat in preparation for a long day on Tuesday. Ahead of them
lies much more technical terrain, including the steep Cathedral Gap.
Some of the party spent monday scouting the route ahead and planning the
technical logistics. "We plan to reach the base of Disappointment
Cleaver and perhaps head up the Emmons Glacier to near 11,000'. This
should put us in a good position for a two to three day summit bid.
Good weather, strong arms, and no mechanical problems should get us there.
Tomorrow will be a major hurdle." Charles Lewinsohn, Dick Erickson,
and Mark Hoza were the porters for Monday.
Tuesday (6/9) - Pete and the team
left Camp Muir around 3:15am this morning and
headed up through Cathedral Gap.
Today was very warm and the snow started getting soft around 8:00am.
Even with the poor snow conditions, they made it all the way to Ingraham
Flats before stopping for the day. Pete is now at about 11,000' with
the Disappointment Cleaver being the next obstacle they will face.
Tomorrow Pete will be taking a rest day. He is still doing very well
but has been "cranking" for 4 days now and wants to rest up a day before
beginning the final push to the summit. He still estimates about
3 more days of work lies ahead. Today's porters were Dick Erickson
and Taylor Woodward.
Wednesday (6/10) - Ingraham Flats,
11,200'. "Snow pod fixed. Yesterday: 30 feet from Ingraham
Flats, the left rear drive sprocket sheared its drive pins. After
a quick inspection, it was revealed that nothing short of parts from Base
Camp could fix it. The main problem would be to extract the broken
aluminum coupler from the bottom bracket spud. Mike Poole rigged
a gear puller from ice pickets and with the application of heat from a
stove, a bit of cursing, and a few good raps from an ice axe it came off.
Now all we had to do was to wait a day for the new parts to arrive from
Base Camp. What to do with a crankless, wasted day was a topic of
group discussion. I wanted to send a crew up and establish a camp
near 13,000', but folks are tired, supplies are running behind us, and
a couple of folks are ill. We decided to run supplies from Muir and
meet the four climbers coming up from Base Camp. The weather was sunny
and hot on Tuesday, but turned to fog and snow overnight. The snowpack
never froze hard enough to even consider snow pod travel. While most
of the climbers went to Muir, Mike, Dan and I stayed behind, made water
and did odd chores. Ira and Ray got back from Muir at 2:30pm.
Mike had the snow pod fixed in 15 minutes. Now we are back in operation
but it is still much too warm and snowing. The weather is supposed
to clear up and cool but there is no sign of it yet. During the late
morning, 10 climbers, moving slowly, went up the Direct Cleaver.
Approximately one hour later, a huge serac slumped, its noise echoing off
the cliffs, and cut through the climbing route. It doesn't look like
they have a route down now. The climbers left late in the day and
we hope the group leaders can figure out a way to get down." Today's
porters were Scott Freeman, Dave Pfund, Dave Blanchard, and Taylor Woodward.
All but Scott were continuing up to join the climbing party. Dean
Nester came off the mountain today and returned to Base Camp with Scott.
The job of portering was made more difficult today with the bad weather,
it was raining most of the time at Paradise.
Thursday (6/11) - NEWS: The Crank
Rainier Team was not involved in todays avalanche on Mt. Rainier.
Members from our team were among the first to report the avalanche by Cell
Phone but everyone in our party is okay. Pete left Ingraham flats
at 1:00am this morning while the snow was hard and crusty. The team
passed under Disappointment Cleaver, dropping a few hundred feet before
climbing up on the Emmons Glacier. The weather was sunny and hot
most of the day and Pete stopped by noon at about 12,000' where camp was
made. The team has been taking avalanche precautions, including checking
the snow's ability to slide by digging an avalanche trench and examining
the layers of snow. The team is above the freeze/thaw line and feels
they are in fairly low danger from avalanches but with today's slide they
are being that much more careful. Pete plans on leaving camp early
tonight, perhaps as early as 10:00 pm if the snow conditions permit it.
If all goes well, we will stay on schedule and summit this weekend, perhaps
as early as Saturday.
Friday (6/12) - Today Pete made it up to
12,600'. He began last night around 11:00pm and managed to crank
through to about 10:00am this morning. The going today was really
difficult with fairly soft snow and steep slopes. The team ended
at a large crevasse which has a dam at one end they plan to cross tomorrow.
To cross at that point they first need to drop about 100 feet down the
mountain and then move back up to the crevasse. Hopefully, Pete will
gain about 1,000' tomorrow and finally reach the summit by Sunday.
Everyone in the team is really tired but is looking forward to reaching
the top.
Sunday (6/14) - Well I have just returned
from being at basecamp all weekend and unfortunately the news I have is
that Pete is coming down without having reached the summit. The decision
was made yesterday by Pete and the rest of the team to turn back at just
under 13,000'. The team encountered a highly crevassed area which
they determined to be too dangerous to continue through. While they
were able to find a path up through the field, utilizing natural snow bridges,
they were uncertain that the same path would even exist in 2-3 days time
when they needed to return. The weather conditions had been very
warm and the bridges didn't look very stable to begin with. All of
this plus the high winds and general fatigue of the team made continuing
too dangerous. "It's unfortunate that we didn't summit but we proved
we can climb a mountain." Early this morning the team began descending
and by 10:00am everyone had safely returned to Ingraham Flats. The
plan now is to resume the descent tomorrow morning and hopefully make it
back to Paradise by tomorrow afternoon. While not reaching the summit is
always a disappointment, what Pete was able to achieve by climbing as high
as he did on his own power made this endeavor a resounding success. Everyone
in basecamp was proud of what we had been a part of. "What's next?
A party of course. To celebrate the safe return of our friends from
a pioneering expedition of human achievement." - Greg Coffey -
Monday (6/15) - I have just heard that
the team safely made it off of the mountain and held a press conference
this afternoon. I hope to get more details on that later tonight
but the important news is that Pete will be featured on ABC's "Good Morning
America" tomorrow (Tuesday, 6/16). Pete will be doing an on camera
interview from Paradise.